More cheese, please

MILWAUKEE, Wis. — More than 600 varieties of cheese are made in America’s Dairyland by 1,200 cheesemakers, including 90-plus master cheesemakers. As a result, Wisconsin is not just moving significant amounts of cheese across its own border, but internationally as well.

This topic was the focus of the “Growing Wisconsin Cheese Exports Globally” event hosted by the Madison International Trade Association April 23 at the Global Water Center in Milwaukee. 

Speakers included Ira Frydman, export and business development bureau director at Wisconsin Department of Agriculture, Trade and Consumer Protection’s International Agribusiness Center; Ben Miller, chief operating officer of Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin; Shannon Bonilla, cheese marketing manager and chef at DFW; Tom Guerin, assistant director, Center for Dairy Research at the University of Wisconsin–Madison; and Alfiya Thomas, vice president of export sales at Schreiber Foods.

Delegates from Colombia, Ecuador, Mexico and Venezuela were also present at the event, which concluded with a reception featuring charcuterie boards with a variety of Wisconsin cheeses.

Frydman began by citing the depth of Wisconsin’s dairy manufacturing capabilities, noting that Wisconsin has 117 cheese plants, 13 butter processing plants, 10 yogurt processing plants, and more than 40 licensed ice cream plants.

“If Wisconsin were its own country, we would be the No. 4 cheese-producing place in the world, directly behind Germany and France and ahead of Italy,” Frydman said.

Ninety percent of the cheese made in Wisconsin is sold outside of the state. Sales beyond U.S. borders are growing as Wisconsin cheese exports reached $256 million in 2025, a growth of 21% from 2024. The state experienced 27% growth in cheese exports between 2023 and 2024 when it expanded to 10 new countries.

“These increases are due in part to collaboration and being specific on where we’re trying to enter markets and doing things in a smart way,” Frydman said. “We’ve seen massive growth with Mexico, which is Wisconsin’s top market.”

Cheese exports to Mexico have more than doubled in the past two years, rising from $40 to $80 million. In Thailand, year over year exports grew 614% from 2024 to 2025, which Frydman said is due to the work DFW is doing in that region, including hands-on cheese training with Thai chefs. There are now 50 stock-keeping units of Wisconsin cheese in Thailand, whereas there were none two years ago. Wisconsin cheese exports to the Philippines soared by 900% from 2024 to 2025.

“Seeing this type of increase year over year is shocking,” Frydman said. “As other places in the U.S. decrease, Wisconsin’s heritage dairy industry is not ceasing.”

During the event, Borilla, a licensed cheesemaker and American Cheese Society certified cheese sensory evaluator, conducted a cheese tasting, giving those in attendance three pairings to try.  She said cheese is a Western food and when going to places like the Philippines, Thailand and China, people’s palates are different.

“Sensory science is important when going out into the world,” she said. “We need to be sensitive to that and to cultural food preferences.”

Following the tasting, a panel moderated by Frydman featured Guerin, Thomas and Miller discussing their insights on Wisconsin’s dairy exports.

“As U.S. customers expand globally, we figure out how to get cheese to them,” Thomas said. “We can’t do it by ourselves. We are one of the founding members of USDEC (U.S. Dairy Export Council), and it’s really helping U.S. dairy manufacturers compete globally.”

Thomas said the U.S. did not start exporting cheese until probably 30-40 years ago.

“Companies from Holland were in Japan in the 1950s,” Thomas said. “We’re kind of late to the game, but we’re fast and gaining share quickly. We need to grow our exports, grow our sales, and we need to make sure the milk is there…it’s important to manage the whole supply chain.”

Miller said the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Foreign Agricultural Service has professionals stationed across the world to help companies export their products.

“They have on-the-ground relationships that help connect the dots for our buyers and cheesemakers who are doing a trade mission,” he said. “FAS officials are able to make introductions that will ultimately turn into sales for our companies.”

The uniqueness of Wisconsin dairy is setting it apart from its competition.

“Specialty cheese is where Wisconsin stands above the rest,” Miller said. “More than 50% of U.S. specialty cheese is produced in Wisconsin. We have the heritage, legacy, artisan expertise and many styles and varieties, and we believe that is what’s going to continue to set us apart.”

Guerin said the level of flexibility in Wisconsin dairy products gives it an advantage.

“Each cheese manufacturer in Wisconsin makes at least two kinds of cheese,” he said. “That brings a certain amount of resiliency to the business. Anyone who is looking to make a new kind of cheese — you’re in the right place for that.”

Thomas said differentiation is a big selling point for Wisconsin.

“We have so many different cheeses,” she said. “When you’re developing a relationship with a customer, history goes far. The story of the product and the company — that’s an easy sell when there is a lot of info to connect us with customers.”

When asked where the strongest market export opportunities are, Miller pointed to Southeast Asia.

“When you look at the trend in growth there, great opportunities exist for us to move the needle in that market,” he said. “And we can’t forget Mexico.”

Miller said exports are a long-term game rather than a short-term sprint.

“The Middle East and North Africa are another area (for opportunity), but that will take time,” he said. “We’re planting seeds now and building relationships today that are hopefully going to survive fluctuations in the market, trade agreements, politics and other global activities that will pay dividends in the future.”

Thomas said Schreiber has been exporting for over 35 years and is celebrating its 25th anniversary with a customer in Korea this year.

“I see opportunities with established customers like Mexico,” she said. “Over 70% of our exports are going to Latin America. Markets like Australia, the Middle East and Korea, where we have free trade agreements established and working, there is definitely growth. Japan and Korea have been eating processed cheese slices for decades, but their palates are improving, and they’re really interested in specialty cheeses.”

Thomas said Japan imports the most cheese in the world.

“It’s a huge market, and there are still opportunities for us to go after,” she said. “Southeast Asia is another one.”

Even in the U.S., cheese consumption is increasing per capita.

“I see growth everywhere,” Thomas said.