Milking parlor transformed into cheese facility

SLEEPY EYE, Minn. — Brian and Jill Nelson and their son, Isaac, have forged their way into the world of value-added processing through their new venture, Compass Rose Creamery, as the Nelsons have converted an old milking parlor barn into a cheese facility.

Currently, the Nelsons haul milk from their own dairy herd to Amo Creamery about 50 minutes away from their farm, where it is made into cheese curds. The Nelsons then transport the curds and flavor, package, and label them in the new facility at their farm. They are planning to soon create cheese-aging rooms to add specialty artisan cheeses to their product line, but the facilities to work with fresh cheese curds are already up and running.

The Nelsons are the fifth and sixth generations respectively to operate Olmar Farms near Sleepy Eye. They milk 150 registered Holsteins and farm nearly 700 acres.

The Nelsons officially began selling cheese curds May 23, following months of construction, planning and regulatory approvals. The Nelsons haul milk to another creamery for cheesemaking and then bring it home for flavoring, packaging and distribution.

“The partnership with Amo Creamery allows us to start small without the big investment of all the cheesemaking equipment,” Jill said, “That’s a very big investment.”

The family’s first cheese day was a marathon effort. Jill and Isaac were up until 4:30 a.m. packaging curds before heading to a farmers market.

“We got about an hour of sleep,” Jill said, “It was a really long day.”

The hard work paid off, as nearly 80 pounds of curds were sold in a day.

The building their cheese facility is housed in was constructed in 1964 and once served as the dairy’s milking parlor.

“This is where I grew up,” Jill said, “Seeing this building come back to life is really cool for me.”

Repurposing the structure required removing concrete platforms, gutting old materials and rebuilding much of the interior. The transformation represents more than a new business venture. It also is an opportunity to keep the next generation in the dairy industry while adding value to the milk produced on their farm.

“Farming is awesome because you get to work with your kids,” Jill said, “You get to see them grow up and develop their interests. This is where Isaac’s interest lies, and it’s been fun to get started with him and see where it goes.”

Isaac studied animal science and food science and spent several years making cheese professionally. Today, he serves as the cheesemaker for Compass Rose Creamery, with the plan to someday be able to make the cheese himself at a site near Olmar Farms.

“I’m not a cheesemaker,” Jill said, “I help him. He gets to tell me what to do.”

The Nelsons hope to eventually build a full processing facility on the farm, but for now, they are focused on learning the business and growing their customer base.

The cheese curds are being sold through farmers markets, online ordering and local businesses. Some of the first customers include breweries, a golf course and specialty beverage establishments.

“We’re focusing a little bit on breweries and wineries and places that don’t have their own kitchens,” she said. “Cheese curds are perfect for that.”

The creamery’s first varieties of curds available are plain, garlic, chipotle, ranch and garlic dill flavors.

“Garlic dill has been really popular,” Jill said, “We sold out of it at the first farmers market.”

Jill has been surprised by how many consumers have never experienced fresh cheese curds.

“People come up and ask me how to cook them,” she said. “They’ve never been exposed to fresh cheese curds that you just eat out of the bag.”

While customers are enjoying the curds today, the family has larger plans for tomorrow. Construction is underway on aging rooms designed to house Alpine-style artisan cheeses, including Swiss, Gruyere and other Alpine vareties.  Alpine style cheeses are known for their creamy texture and nutty undertones. For now, those cheeses will also be made from the Nelsons’ milk at Amo Creamery but the delicate aging process will happen back at the farm.

The name Compass Rose Creamery was inspired by the compass rose star featured in the farm’s logo. The symbol also carries personal meaning.

“We wanted something that tied the creamery to the farm but still gave it its own identity,” Jill said. “Our guiding compass is our belief in God and Christ. To me, that star symbolizes that.”

While the cheese facility represents a new chapter, it remains grounded in the same faith, family values and commitment to dairy farming that have sustained the Nelsons’ operation for generations.

“There are so many things you don’t know when you’re starting,” Jill said. “We’ve got that first make under our belt, and we can keep building from there.”