Four decades of serving shakes

NEW ULM, Minn. — Vanilla, strawberry, chocolate, caramel or Oreo? Small or large? A spoon, straw or both? For nearly 40 years, Reynold and Vivian Dittbenner have been asking those questions and handing out sweet treats to attendees at the Brown County Fair. The dairy delights have become a staple that many look forward to enjoying each fair season.

“It’s a volunteer job — something we’re doing for the community, for the dairy industry,” Reynold Dittbenner said. “It makes you feel good when you walk down the street and somebody asks if you’re going to be at the fair.”

During the 5-day event near New Ulm, the Dittbenners — both in their 80s — can be found manning a food truck designed to resemble an ice cream cone decorated with milkshakes and bowls of soft serve. Before opening each day, counters and equipment must be sanitized; strawberries and Oreo crumbles are prepped; milk is stocked; utensils, napkins and cups are put in place; money is counted, and most importantly, soft serve is made.

“We’ve talked to some people, and they say, ‘The first thing I want when I get to the fair is a milkshake,’” Reynold said.

Once a customer makes their decision at the window, the order is called back. Reynold or Vivian gets to work, grabbing the right size cup and heading to the ice cream machine. Chocolate or vanilla soft serve is added to the cup, followed by caramel syrup, crushed Oreos or strawberries, and then more ice cream on top before it is all blended. One last dollop of soft serve is placed on top to complete the milkshake.

As former Brown County dairy farmers, Reynold and Vivian were frequent fairgoers, especially as their three children became active in 4-H. The couple’s daughter, Darial, later became a local dairy princess in 1990. As part of her role, she managed the malt [Ma1.1]wagon in the 4-H food stand during the Brown County Fair.

“She was covering some of the fairs, handing out ribbons, so we took over and helped her out,” Reynold said. “That first year we sold $1,800 worth of malts, and they were 75 cents apiece.”

Reynold and Vivian continued serving malts in the 4-H food stand using a portable machine until 1995. That year, the pair acquired a state-owned wagon, allowing for a new location and more space to make the dessert. The malt stand didn’t move far, though, settling near the food stand and cattle barn, which has since become its permanent spot.

“We always had the 4-H kids helping with serving malts and stuff in the back of the food stand,” Vivian Dittbenner said. “It’s a thing that grew on us, (and) we’ve looked forward to it every year.”

In 2023, Reynold and Vivian used the state-owned wagon for the last time. Schedules for nearby fairs had shifted, leaving only two machines available for seven counties. Unfortunately, the Brown County Fair was not selected, meaning the Dittbenners had to figure out a new way to serve shakes.

The solution came in the form of a truck rented from Lingen Dairy. Owned by Josh and Sarah Lingen, dairy farmers from Balaton,
the business is a subcontractor for the Midwest Dairy Association, responsible for providing malt wagons at all dairy association fairs. The Lingens own 11 trucks and trailers and rent 46 machines.

“When we got the trailer, it was so nice because everything was contained, and you didn’t have to go running for anything,” Vivian said.

Over the years, the Dittbenners witnessed the fair and the malt stand evolve: malted milkshakes are no longer available, costs have risen, demand has increased and attendance has grown. Yet, the couple knows one constant throughout it all has been the community.

“We don’t always stand at the window, but there’s always people who are willing to stop and talk to you,” Reynold said. “It’s a different type of relationship; they come to the fair to get a malt, watch the dairy show or be involved, and that’s important.”

Volunteers have also assisted at the stand, especially during the years when the Dittbenners had to return home to milk cows.

“One of us would go home and do chores, and a lot of times, we didn’t open at 11 or until the morning chores were done,” Reynold said. “You work your schedule around it.”

Despite being retired, the couple is still active on the family farm, which is now run by their son, Craig. Other industry volunteers, such as local dairy princesses and ambassadors, join the Dittbenners to whip up and hand out shakes as well.

“We’ve been asking other dairy farmers to come in and help contribute some of their hours to running the stand,” Vivian said. “There are actually people that ask if they can come and help.”

With nearly 40 years of serving shakes under their belts, the Dittbenners are preparing to hand the reins over to the next generation of Brown County dairy farmers. The pair said they hope the Brown County Fair, along with the dairy industry, continues to grow while educating local youth.

“It’s our way of leaving something important for another person to try and come and take over,” Vivian said. “We’d be willing to help out, too.”

Reynold agreed.

“It’s fun (and) we have a little more time to do it now than we did before,” he said. “But I’ve been saying we should be done, and it’s time to slow down a bit.”